Nikon D50 Book
INTRODUCTION
This is how I use and set up a D50.
Want free stay telephone help, 24 hours a day, 365 days a yr? In the event you’re in the USA, call (800) NIKON-UX! Nikon also has some of it’s own operator’s tutorials here.
I begin off explaining issues so simply my mother can perceive, and get on to deciphering every menu item for superior users at the bottom.
For more examples of why you’d wish to change these settings and why, also see my Maui Photo Expedition page.
BASICS:
CAMERA
Many of those adjustments require you to be in be in the P, S, A or M publicity modes. You set that on the top dial. The lovable preset modes often lock out some adjustments.
I go away most settings at their defaults and use the Program exposure mode. I by no means use the lovable little preset icon modes as a result of I desire to set something special myself.
ISO: I use 200. If the sunshine will get dim and my pictures would get blurry from slower shutter speeds I increase the ISO to 400, 800 or 1,600. I never hassle with in-between settings like 250 or 640. The D50 seems to be fine at ISO 1,600 if you need it. I might much somewhat have a barely grainy however sharp image than a much less grainy however blurry one. In contrast to movie, the D50 seems to be nice at excessive ISOs, so I take advantage of them anytime I want them.
I would love to make use of ISO AUTO, but often don’t as a result of it additionally stays energetic in Manual publicity mode. This firmware defect defeats the aim of the guide exposure mode. Using menus to deactivate AUTO ISO for handbook publicity mode takes more time than AUTO ISO saves. Rats.
White Balance (WB): I might use AUTO and an 81A glass warming filter on the lens. I want warmer (oranger) images. I clarify white steadiness on my White Stability web page and explain extra about the best way to alter it on the D50 later.
QUAL: I shoot JPG NORMAL. That is referred to as NORM and L on the highest LCD, which stands for NORMal JPG compression and Massive (3,008 x 2,000) image size.
I’ve made 12 x 18″ prints of the identical shot made in BASIC, NORMAL, FINE and raw. I saw NO distinction! Seriously, if you noticed these prints you would not have the ability to sort them out either. I can see only the slightest variations on my monitor enlarged to a hundred%, which has similarities to a 20 x 30″ print, and my digital LCD monitor has a hundred% MTF pixel-to-pixel, which prints don’t. Don’t fret: if you need house, shoot BASIC and no one will see the difference. The one solution to tell is by looking on the file size.
I’ll use BASIC for parties and sports activities when I’m shooting many a whole bunch and a whole lot of photos at once. In these circumstances I’m extra concerned with time wasted for the recordsdata to switch, copy and archive. Basic appears to be like ninety nine% the same as FINE, even blown up big.
I’ll use FINE on uncommon occasions where I’m capturing just a few images and count on to look at them very closely. In these circumstances the extra dimension is not important if I anticipate to be spending a lot of time analyzing every image.
I avoid FINE JPG as a result of NORM gives me the identical results, with half the file size. If I shot FINE I might run out of room on a card and miss a shot. Lacking a shot is a really seen defect, and I see no defects in NORM. Nikon knows what they’re doing. That is why they call it Normal and that is why I usually use Regular JPG.
OPTIMIZE IMAGE: I prefer the vivid coloration I get from Fuji’s Velvia 50 film, so I tweak a D50 to present coloration as vivid as I can get. To do this go to MENU > Taking pictures Menu (camera icon) > Optimize Picture > Custom > (set Saturation to + and Shade Mode to IIIa) > – - Done > OK. For those who forget to pick out “- – Achieved” and hit OK it won’t remember these settings! Particulars are on the Shooting Menu page.
For photographs of individuals I either set the colors back to regular, or cheat and use the Portrait preset mode on the highest dial.
FOCUS: AF.
METERING: Matrix.
LENS
Many lenses haven’t any switches or settings. If that’s the case, don’t worry.
More superior lenses have focus mode settings, which can be either “M/A – A,” or “A – M” on older lenses.
On older lenses I leave it at “A,” which is Autofocus. “M” is handbook focus. Typically you even have to maneuver the change on the digital camera, which is a pain.
If the switch says “M/A – A” then I exploit M/A. This offers autofocus, and if I seize the focus ring it instantly lets me make guide corrections. As quickly as I faucet the shutter button once more I get autofocus. This M/A setting, if the lens has it, supplies both sorts of focus with out ever having to maneuver any switches . It’s the best.
Non-G lenses will have an aperture ring where the lens is connected to the camera. Set this this ring to the biggest quantity, usually 22, if not 32 or 16. This quantity can be in orange on autofocus lenses. There usually is a lock to keep this ring set there, since if it comes off that setting you will get an error message from the D50.
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