Nikon D50 Book
INTRODUCTION
This is how I exploit and set up a D50.
Want free dwell cellphone help, 24 hours a day, one year a yr? For those who’re in the USA, name (800) NIKON-UX! Nikon additionally has a few of it’s own operator’s tutorials here.
I start off explaining things so simply my mother can understand, and get on to deciphering every menu merchandise for advanced customers at the bottom.
For more examples of why you’d want to change these settings and why, also see my Maui Photograph Expedition page.
BASICS:
CAMERA
Many of these changes require you to be in be in the P, S, A or M publicity modes. You set that on the top dial. The cute preset modes typically lock out some adjustments.
I go away most settings at their defaults and use the Program publicity mode. I by no means use the lovable little preset icon modes as a result of I choose to set anything special myself.
ISO: I take advantage of 200. If the sunshine will get dim and my images would get blurry from slower shutter speeds I increase the ISO to 400, 800 or 1,600. I by no means bother with in-between settings like 250 or 640. The D50 appears to be like advantageous at ISO 1,600 in the event you want it. I would much reasonably have a barely grainy however sharp image than a much less grainy however blurry one. In contrast to film, the D50 appears to be like great at excessive ISOs, so I use them anytime I need them.
I would love to use ISO AUTO, but often do not as a result of it also remains active in Manual publicity mode. This firmware defect defeats the aim of the handbook exposure mode. Using menus to deactivate AUTO ISO for guide publicity mode takes extra time than AUTO ISO saves. Rats.
White Balance (WB): I might use AUTO and an 81A glass warming filter on the lens. I favor warmer (oranger) images. I explain white balance on my White Stability page and explain more about learn how to alter it on the D50 later.
QUAL: I shoot JPG NORMAL. That is called NORM and L on the highest LCD, which stands for NORMal JPG compression and Large (three,008 x 2,000) image size.
I’ve made 12 x 18″ prints of the identical shot made in BASIC, NORMAL, FINE and raw. I saw NO difference! Significantly, in the event you saw these prints you would not have the ability to kind them out either. I can see only the slightest variations on my monitor enlarged to a hundred%, which is analogous to a 20 x 30″ print, and my digital LCD monitor has a hundred% MTF pixel-to-pixel, which prints don’t. Don’t be concerned: if you happen to want house, shoot BASIC and no one will see the difference. The only way to inform is by looking at the file size.
I’ll use BASIC for events and sports after I’m capturing many hundreds and a whole lot of images at once. In these circumstances I am extra involved with time wasted for the files to switch, copy and archive. Basic appears to be like 99% the identical as FINE, even blown up big.
I’ll use FINE on uncommon events where I’m capturing just a few photographs and expect to look at them very closely. In these cases the additional measurement is not vital if I expect to be spending a whole lot of time analyzing each image.
I keep away from FINE JPG as a result of NORM gives me the identical results, with half the file size. If I shot FINE I’d run out of room on a card and miss a shot. Missing a shot is a really visible defect, and I see no defects in NORM. Nikon is aware of what they’re doing. That is why they name it Regular and that’s why I usually use Regular JPG.
OPTIMIZE IMAGE: I prefer the vivid coloration I get from Fuji’s Velvia 50 film, so I tweak a D50 to provide shade as vivid as I can get. To do that go to MENU > Capturing Menu (camera icon) > Optimize Picture > Custom > (set Saturation to + and Color Mode to IIIa) > – - Performed > OK. Should you neglect to select “- – Completed” and hit OK it will not bear in mind these settings! Particulars are on the Shooting Menu page.
For pictures of people I both set the colours back to normal, or cheat and use the Portrait preset mode on the highest dial.
FOCUS: AF.
METERING: Matrix.
LENS
Many lenses don’t have any switches or settings. If that’s the case, don’t worry.
More advanced lenses have focus mode settings, which will be either “M/A – A,” or “A – M” on older lenses.
On older lenses I go away it at “A,” which is Autofocus. “M” is manual focus. Generally you also have to maneuver the change on the digicam, which is a pain.
If the switch says “M/A – A” then I exploit M/A. This offers autofocus, and if I seize the main target ring it instantly lets me make guide corrections. As quickly as I tap the shutter button again I get autofocus. This M/A setting, if the lens has it, gives each kinds of focus without ever having to move any switches . It’s the best.
Non-G lenses may have an aperture ring the place the lens is hooked up to the camera. Set this this ring to the largest quantity, normally 22, if not 32 or 16. This number shall be in orange on autofocus lenses. There usually is a lock to keep this ring set there, since if it comes off that setting you will get an error message from the D50.
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